Once the modules and BMBs have been checked and repaired/replaced, it is time to put everything back together! Read through the entire section before you start so you don't accidentally cut a corner and are forced to backtrack.
We are going to reload in mostly the reverse order of removal. Remember how carefully you paid attention and how many detailed photos you took when you removed these modules? Good! This part is a bit fiddly and is certainly the most complicated part of re-loading. Getting the bus bar from #7 to the fuse and the other bus bar going from #9 positive to the spine of the pack (this one stayed in place), plus all their little shields and insulators correct takes some concentration if you are doing it for the first time. I didn't over-describe this for two reasons: 1) I'm not sure I can do it accurately and 2) your own pictures and recollections will be better.
The first thing to do is make sure the shields are in the bottom of each bay if you took them out. They are held in place with double-sticky tape. I've seen packs where they fall out and seen packs where you would have to break them to get them out so yours might have never moved... Just make sure they are in now!
The difference now from removal is that we need to treat #7, #8, #9 and #10 as a unit in terms of how they tie down. #8 goes into the front first, then #7 and #10. Place the brackets in place to hold down 7/8/10 then install #9 (upside down) on top of #8. More brackets go on to hold down #9 onto the top of #8. Get these 4 modules in and arranged as a group and fully torqued down. The fuse goes in later, but make sure the bus bars line up with the holes for the fuse. You can put the bolts into the fuse holder temporarily to locate them while you snug the other ends down.
Hook up the BMB connectors, the coolant tubes and HV lugs as you go. The coolant tubes on #8/9 are good to practice on because they are so accessible. The rest of them in the pack are done almost blind so it really helps to get the feel of them with 8/9. Notice how you need to get the plastic clip pushed on past the collar on the nipple? The o-rings can trick you and make you think you got it connected when you actually didn't! See the section below on the coolant connections. Be methodical with all of these connections - don't leave something finger-tight at the end of the process and have it burn up months from now. Place the rubber cap on each lug as you torque it down to help you keep track of what has been torqued and for insulation/safety.
The only torque spec I can find for the HV lugs are for the Model 3 which has smaller fasteners. You will want to do the final tightening of these by hand being careful to feel the difference between tight and too tight. If someone can quote a specific torque spec, please message me and I'll include it here.
*Of course, if you have a 14 modules pack, the process is a little different but you can still do #7 and the module on the opposite side (the 14 module version of #8) first.
This is a pretty standard automotive fuel line connector. You press it on the nipple past the collar and the plastic clip drops down behind the collar to hold it in place. The o-rings (two of them) do the job of sealing.
These are a little difficult to get to with the modules in the pack. It is good to support the back side while pushing on the front so the metal flexes as little as possible. They are standard 5/16" - as mentioned, the design is usually used to connect fuel lines.
This is what it looks like assembled. Be aware that the plastic clip can also drop into place on the wrong side of the collar. If this happens, it will still seal on the o-rings but the hose can pop off under pressure. Push back on the connector after you think it is clipped to make sure it doesn't move and is held by the collar.
Remember your PPE and safety. After this step, the pack is still very 'broken' in terms of the DC bus and there isn't a ton of voltage potential yet but you have just finished getting very comfortable handing modules individually that are very 'safe'. Take a minute to re-establish the respect you had for the danger of HV at the beginning of the process.
These modules go back in very easily. You will get the hang of wiggling them around a little until the module frame drops onto the two guide pins. Again, be methodical with the BMB connectors, HV lugs and coolant hoses.
Next install the middle pieces - 2, 6, 11 and 15. This is where the voltage gets more dangerous. Best practice is to use an insulated magnet to drop the bolts into the module and use a drill on the slowest and lowest torque to gently run them in. Then finish torquing them down with insulated gloves an insulated torque wrench and of course your high voltage gloves. Don't forget the coolant connections and BMB plugs.
Now install the final modules - 4 and 13. The voltage danger is at its highest as that last module goes in even though the fuse is still out so go slow and cautiously. Hook up the coolant line on one of these modules but not the final one. Before we hook up the last module's cooling hoses, we want to do a pressure test the coolant system before the final module is connected. That is described in the next section.